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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.